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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.